Nowhere has history come alive for us more than Cambodia. Just forty years ago, the Khmer Rouge swept in, ostensibly as the “Peace Party,” after the wars of Southeast Asia, and proceeded to exterminate two million of their own people. A generation was literally wiped out. The Khmer Rouge regime executed almost the entire professional class. If you went to college, you were killed. If you wore glasses, you were considered to be an intellectual and hence executed. Of four thousand doctors in Cambodia before Pol Pot’s rule, only forty doctors remained. Every person from the city was marched out into the countryside because Pol Pot, the despotic leader, believed in making an entirely agrarian society. Phnom Penh became a ghost town. Families were split apart. Men and women were made to marry and have children. Everyone was made to farm rice, but very few knew how so a terrible famine came. Everyone in the country today has been directly touched by this genocide. It is impossible to escape.So when you travel to Cambodia, none of this feels like history at all. It feels much more immediate. When we visited S-21, the former high school which was transformed into a prison in the heart of Phnom Penh, now a genocide museum, Franny had so many questions, all stemming from “How could this happen?” Answers are hard to provide. Our family had read Orwell’s “Animal Farm” at the beginning of our trip and we find it is apropos over and over again — in China, in Laos, in Argentina — a regime that claims to be for the people crushing the very people it says to be representing. But even within this context, the Khmer Rouge is barely fathomable. What kind of power did Pol Pot possess that he could lead so many to do such horrible things to their brethren?The extraordinary part is that the Cambodian people we met — just one generation removed from these horrors — absolutely amazed us. Everyone we encountered was directly affected by the Khmer Rouge — either their father was killed, or their brothers were killed, or they grew up in refugee camps on the Thai border. But somehow, these Cambodian people who survived still show a remarkable joyous spirit. They are kind, welcoming and generous. This testament to human resiliency stands in stark contrast to the country’s horrifying recent history.After experiencing S-21 Prison, Franny wrote down her impressions: “Glass sticking up from the towering gates. Barbed-wire on every door. No chance at escape, no dreams of freedom. Stepping into the jail cells in S-21, I could only imagine the terror that went down there. Seeing endless pictures on the walls of the innocent people who were killed just because they could read or write, or knew too much, brought tears to my eyes. S-21 was once a school, where children learned to read and write, but after the Khmer Rouge it became a torture chamber. So close to the middle of a beautiful city, it is where many people spent their last days on earth. S-21 is a reminder that too much power placed in the wrong hands can lead to terrible, unimaginable things.”
“…a regime that claims to be for the people crushing the very people it says to be representing.”
I stand with Franny—“How can this happen?”
Yet it does. And it can. Anywhere. Anytime. Perhaps a part of the answer is found in the well-known statement: POWER CORRUPTS.
Politics. Politicians. Money. Self-interest. Greed.
Ideology. Nationalism. Corruption. Etc.
What a world!
Peace & Love, #1FANNY
S-21…a place so banal. So modest. Made of concrete. A simple school building where children learned their lessons. Transformed into a hideous death building. Now, a place where new lessons can be taught to us all. Real life lessons. Hard lessons. Set in concrete.
Once again, you and I have walked along the same paths, stood in the same rooms and perhaps, thought the same thoughts.
It’s quite special that you’ve taken your children to see this and all the rest. And still so much to come. What a trip!!!!
xox,#1FANNY
Thank you ,Franny, for your beautifully written impressions of the Cambodian genocide. It is amazing to meet people directly affected by this unspeakable horror and yet can manage to go on. Your year to think is quite a vast university of knowledge,history,impressions….thinking of you all and happy Chanukah. Love,aunty Wendy
The whole range of human nature in just one place, from torture and horror to survival, healing, joy, kindness and generosity. What an experience for all of you. You open up the world for me when you share it. Thank you.
“Never Again.” Stated on the memorial as you leave Dachau in Germany. And yet it continues. Its impossible to comprehend at any age. What an amazing experience for your kids. The heights and depths of humanity they are exploring. They’ll never forget it
I have been haunted by your comments all day, Franny, wondering what to say to you. You have seen now what I saw at a concentration camp near Prague last month: the worst that humanity is capable of, the absolute bottom of the world. Maybe the amazing thing is these horrors don’t happen more. The truth probably lies in something Anne Frank wrote in her diary: that in spite of all she saw around her, she believed that people are basically good at heart. Come to think of it, she wasn’t much older than you….
I hadn’t seen this. Franny, you wrote so beautifully about what you saw and learned. You’re learning more traveling than you would from any book, especially if you keep your heart and mind open as you do.